【Silver Oak & Twomey】
Silver Oak當然是很「加州」的酒款，今年受邀參加在韓國的美國農業部／美國乳品協會全球講師訓練時，這隻酒配上BellaVitano乳酪時十分合拍，得到一致的讚賞。
最近大家關心的是Kincade Fire，北加州一度陷入緊急狀態，還好目前已經被控制，居民也陸續回歸家園，但許多人的產業已經被燒毀，葡萄園的影響有限，大部份酒農已在九月第三週前結束採收。官方的說法是大火不影響2019年份的產量，事實上2019被視為是北加州的「經典年份」。儘管如此，Sonoma有185,000人被疏散。Kincade Fire摧毀了Field Stone和Soda Rock的建築物。Silver Oak的葡萄園有稍微受損，但主要建築與設備均未被波及。而極端氣候的影響出並非僅有火災的威脅，2018年曾因野火破產的太平洋燃電公司，在今年收成的高峰期間執行了一系列的電網關閉措施以預防火災，影響達二百萬人，這是加州史上最大規模的停電！釀酒廠面臨無電可用的窘局，沒有電就無法控制發酵的溫度，這對許多酒莊是極為致命的。
由一個家族建立的兩個酒莊，Silver Oak與Twomey有些不一樣的取向：Silver Oak重點在於卡本內與美國桶，酒質甜美深厚；Twomey則找尋較冷涼的地塊，以法國桶釀製冷涼的品種與風格。酒廠對於最終酒質的控制有幾個面向：好酒來自好品質的葡萄，如何控制葡萄藤活力是很重要的，酒廠使用高科技Sap Flow Monitor/Mapping Vigor儀器監測木質部的水份狀態與掃瞄Shoot的生長狀態，從而決定如何灌溉及其他葡萄園枝葉管理手段。另外Silver Oak有自己的製桶廠，對美國桶的研究當然比別人更深入，不同的Toast Level成就不同的風味，釀酒師Nate與桶匠的合作非常密切，為每年的採收預備適合的美國桶；並使用處理過的軟木塞預防TCA污染。
科技的引入不等於好酒，頂多可以說酒質的有一份品質的保證，但不保證酒汁風味與哲學體現，好酒仍然回歸感性層面，不過對品質的投資永遠不會白費，在對的方向努力一定會有回報。
[Twomey Sauvignon Blanc 2017]
Brillant fresh fruity and herbal aromas, good sustain on the nose, roundness on the palate, high refresh acidity gives the depth. A good example of Sauvignon Blanc.
[Twomey Russian River Valley Pinot Noir 2016]
Twomey現今更加注意Pinot Noir在西岸的潛力。目前有九款Pinot Noir產品，但是產量太低買不到..............................
Pronounced, sweet spices, cinnamon, sunny, ripe red raspberry, some orange peel, floral, roast peanut. M intensity with M body, refresh M+ acidity balances with the texture, silky tannin, Typical CAL Pinot noir, high contain in alumni of the soil.
[Twomey Bien Nacido Pinot Noir 2015]
Pronounced, lead by toasty aromas, dark, gamey. Mouthful but elegant on palate, oak flavors support the texture, subtle, manhood, vivid in length.
[本日最喜歡 Twomey Napa Valley Merlot 2014]
M intensity with aromas of milky, slightly leather, pungent spices, shy ripe black currant and pleasant herbaceous. Smooth M+ body with M acidity and M tannin, roundness in body, vibrant red and black fruits freshness, clean-through flavor-profiles within good integration, some bitterness gives the depth. elegant notes of Earl Gary in length.
釀酒總監Jean Claude自Petrus退休後自我請纓成為Twomey的釀酒師，這款酒當然不同於Pomerol，但是自有主張，釀酒師的強烈意念可以感覺得到。
[Silver Oak Alexander Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 2014]
Pronounced, complex in profiles but good in integration, coconut milk, some elegant meaty, almond, brown sugar. Full body with soft high tannin and M acidity, juicy on the palate with shinning spices notes, red fruits and coconut milk flavors in length, tobacco and raisins, subtle, fresh cedar notes support the concentration and depth.
[Silver Oak Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 2013]
M+ intensity aromas with pepperoni, red beans paste, milky, 叉燒包, fermented soybeans, pencil, cedar, slightly coconut milk. Mouthful full-body, M+ fresh acidity gives the depth, chewy texture, some black-tea tannin on the palate supports the structure, iron-flavors. Still young and high potential in further 20+ years aging.
延伸閱讀
暗夜降臨 北加州即將大停電一周80萬戶遭殃 https://udn.com/news/story/6813/4095199
軟木塞的Dry Soak Method http://www.spiritedbiz.com/taint-misbehavin-improving-tca-testing-methods-ensure-cork-quality/
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